With the touring bike along the coast of Sardinia

In the text below you can read how we (Martina and Adrian) went on a discovery vacation in Sardinia with our touring bike, how we planned it and what parallels we can draw with Pedalmondo.

Preparation - the country

Martina and I are generally not beach or all-inclusive vacation types. We usually look for something with more experience factor for the vacation. This year it was clear relatively quickly, it should be Sardinia. Because against one, two beautiful days at the beach and the Italian attitude to life we had nothing. In addition, the beaches of Sardinia should be incredibly beautiful.

Since I had recently founded Pedalmondo with Alex, it was obvious to discover Sardinia by touring bike. We wanted to challenge ourselves sportily and explore the island at a slower pace. We were also attracted by the feeling of adventure. Foreign country, foreign people with a different language, unfamiliar traffic and roads. Of course, we were also interested in how other touring bike rental companies set up.

Preparation - the route

Both of us have never been to Sardinia. So we researched where such a trip might be worthwhile. After consulting various blogs and guided touring bike trips, it was clear that it should go to the southwest. We would start in Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia, where we would rent our touring bikes and then head west.

The only hitch: After the beautiful coastal route, we would have to drive over a very busy main road through the interior of the island back to Cagliari to return the touring bikes. The return transport of the touring bikes was not offered by the rental company.

We divided the route into five daily stages, which we knew we would easily manage the distance (40 to 80 kilometers per day). Then we booked ourselves suitable hotels or bed&breakfasts. We are both structured planners who like to know where they sleep in the evening and don't feel like looking for a place to sleep after the tour. Camping would have been an option, but we didn't quite trust the May weather. (That was a spot-on decision. More on that later).

It took us a little longer to find a suitable rental company for touring bikes and multi-day travel equipment. Finally, we found something outside of Cagliari. Sardinia Grand Tour met all criteria and seemed very serious. We also exchanged information via email and found the support before the rental very competent and trustworthy. More about the rented material and the comparison can be found further down in the blog.

Preparation - the journey

We like to travel simple and minimalist, at least that's how we think of ourselves. At the same time, we like comfort and a certain protection against contingencies. Therefore, we pack more often for our vacation than we actually want. You know it! On a multi-day tour with the touring bike but every gram of weight counts and here definitely applies, less is more.

After the tour we planned a few days on the coast with the rental car. So it needed just a little more luggage and thus also a travel suitcase, from which not everything came along on the bike tour. We deposited the suitcases at Sardinia Grand Tour. This we had previously agreed by e-mail with the rental company.

Entrance to Sardinia Grand Tour in Cagliari. Here we rented our touring bike.
Entrance to Sardinia Grand Tour in Cagliari. Here we rented our touring bike.

After landing in Sardinia, we had one more day and night in Cagliari to acclimatize and arrive. Definitely something we recommend in general - also in Bern. For tips on how to spend your first day in Bern, check out the Blog.

As already mentioned, the bike rental is located a bit outside the center. However, within 10 minutes you can reach it well by cab or public transport.

We received the following equipment:

  • 2x touring bike Bianchi - C-SPORT 2 with a Shimano gear system
  • 2x Ortlieb Hinterradtaschen 20L
  • 2x BRC rear panniers 18L (estimated)
  • 2x Ortlieb Lenkertaschen 6L
  • 2x Bike helmet

Marco from Sardinia Grand Tour explained to us the equipment. We exchanged information about the planned tour and of course about Pedalmondo. Marco was really very competent, helpful and nice. We stowed our luggage for the next five days in the panniers. In the nearest supermarket we bought picnic and water for the first day. When we had done everything, we could finally start.

Bike tour day 1 - Out of the city: By touring bike from Cagliari to Pula

Our first stage took us from Cagliari to Pula. In Switzerland, we are used to perfectly signed and top processed bike paths. We did not rely on it being the same in Sardinia and planned the route with Komoot the night before. After a short time, the cell phone had to be pulled out and the map consulted, because the island city of Cagliari is surprisingly large and confusing.

Route overview Cagliari - Pula
Route overview Cagliari - Pula Source: Komoot

Fortunately, the handlebar bags from Orthlieb (Pedalmondo has the same) had a clear window where it is possible to place the smartphone and use it as a navigation device. On this day it was very hot and after about half an hour we had to remove the smartphone again because of threatening overheating. Once past the maze of the city, the bike paths became more adventurous. Pushing bikes, carrying bikes. It was the adventure we had hoped for a little.

Sardinia bike trip: Sometimes with obstacles
Sardinia bike trip: Sometimes with obstacles

The stage itself didn't really have much worth seeing. We drove through a seemingly never-ending industrial area, most of which simply lay fallow. Plus it was Saturday and the factories that were still in operation were at a standstill and we saw practically not a soul. In between it was really a bit creepy. More exciting were in any case large wind turbines and solar panels, which between the industrial buildings despite the weekend diligently produced electricity.

Until the finish, after leaving the industrial area, we continued on a busy national road to Pula. In the village square, dolce vita presented itself in the midst of the locals, authentic food and somewhat tired legs. The Sardinian cordiality, a shower and a soft bed were our reward. The first stage was done and we had arrived, in the middle of our Sardinian adventure.

Bike tour day 2 - Along Sardinian coasts: from Pula to Sant' Anna Arresi

Route summary Pula - Sant'Anna Arresi
Routenübersicht Pula – Sant’Anna Arresi

Certain parts of the body do not like the second day so much. Among other things, we had made the mistake of not wearing cycling gloves, which caused numb and aching hands and arms. The Bianci bikes had handlebar extensions, but nowhere near as wide as these from Pedalmondo. Also, the handlebars were set lower, which put more pressure on the hands. Of course, there were other pressure points, which were noticeable every time you sat down.

Beach with palm trees
Beach near Pula

Nevertheless, we started after renewed shopping for food on the probably most beautiful day stage of the entire tour. Even though Komoot wanted to send us over the mountains to save distance, we decided to ride along the sea as much as possible. This decision was both a blessing and a curse. On the one hand, we enjoyed the beautiful coasts of Sardinia, but at the same time the pass road-like route was quite challenging.

The coasts of Sardinia: blessing and curse for every bike traveler
The coasts of Sardinia: blessing and curse for bike traveler

We were sometimes glad that the sun was not yet shining in its full power, because it was already hot enough and we drank lots of water to keep our water balance stable. One or two climbs made us philosophize about taking even less luggage with us on the next tour and also to distribute the weight better.

Unfortunately, we had no front carrier, which made the weight distribution a bit more difficult. If you drive such a large slope, you get easily in arrears.

Also on this day we drove strictly according to the map of Komoot, which had partly somewhat own idea of a cycle path. In between, mountain bikes would probably have been the better choice. So we had to push the bikes from time to time.

Sardinia's bike paths - sometimes not quite suitable for touring bikes
Sardinia's bike paths - sometimes not quite suitable for touring bikes

After a long and hot day we finally arrived at our accommodation where we were warmly welcomed in Italian and hosted (there were three homemade cakes for breakfast).

Bike tour day 3 - On the road on bike paths: from Sant' Anna Arresi to Calasetta

Route overview from Sant'Anna Arresi to Calasetta
Route overview from Sant'Anna Arresi to Calasetta

Our third day we started freshly recovered and the first kilometers went as if by itself, because the terrain was slightly sloping towards the sea and we finally found well paved, hardly traveled bike paths. In addition, our bodies were slowly accustomed to the strain and so we quickly made many kilometers. Apart from the bike paths, the weather cooperated to some extent, although the sky darkened more and more.

Sardinian old town with flowering plants
Sardinia in early summer: it blossoms

Passing picturesque little towns and many colorful flowers, we eventually reached the strait between the main island and Isola di Sant'Antioco in southwestern Sardinia. The two islands were connected by a causeway with a wide bike path. In the distance we could admire the famous Sardinian flamingos during the ride.

Bike path between the main island and Isola Sant'Antioco with some sea on the left
Bike path between the main island and Isola Sant'Antioco with some sea on the left

When we left the dam, we came to the very picturesque but steep coastal town of Sant'Atioco - a real beauty where we enjoyed an Italian coffee in the village square at the highest point of the town. After that we started the last kilometers of the day, which were first on the national road and then on the gravel road. On a remote road we met the next challenge. A dog that defended his home or cattle. We did not trust the dog and turned back, taking a small detour. Arrived at the hotel, it began to rain lightly, but this did not prevent us from jumping briefly into the pool as a reward for the day.

Bike tour day 4 - Sardinian Floods - From Calasetta to Carbonia

The fourth day was supposed to take us from Calasetta to Nebida, where we had reserved a homely Bed&Breakfast. We felt great on our bikes and were motivated to ride the 50km or so.

Planned route day 4 Calasetta - Nebida
Planned route day 4 Calasetta - Nebida

We thought that we could escape the predicted thunderstorm. But after a short drive we were hit by a thundercloud shortly before Carbonia, which turned out to be persistent. We were partly standing up to our calves in water. After initial attempts to continue anyway, we finally sought shelter in the train station of Carbonia and watched the floods.

Floods in Sardinia
Torrential rains in Sardinia

Traffic slowly came to a standstill due to the high water and roads had to be closed. In the distance we heard the sirens and after waiting for about two hours we slowly started to freeze, because we were soaked to the bone. We decided not to continue and end our multi-day tour here. The weather was not predicted to be any better the next day. In addition, Marco from the bike rental advised us that we should better take the train for the last stage. The route led 80km over a multi-lane federal highway.

So instead of continuing the tour to Nebida today we decided to take a hotel in Carbonia and dry our stuff.

When we informed the Bed&Breakfast in Nebida that we were not coming because of the storm, we again experienced the Sardinian hospitality. The host wanted to pick us up in Carbonia, 30km from Nebida. But we had already booked the new hotel and therefore declined with thanks. Besides, in Carbonia the next day we could load the bikes directly on the train and go directly, without stopover, back to Cagliari.

Conclusion: Always happy to travel by bicycle

Martina with the two rental bikes
Rest in the Sardinian shade

The bike tour through Sardinia was definitely an adventure and we could collect many impressions that we definitely would not have collected with another means of transport. Especially the storm with the floods, the Sardinian "bike paths" over hill and dale and the biting dogs were experiences that stay. We definitely came closer to the people on the bike than by car. Everywhere we passed, people waved.

It must also be said that we did not meet any other touring cyclists. We were therefore to this season rather a rarity. The warmth of the Sardinians will always remain in our memory. We were addressed everywhere in Italian or English and we sometimes communicated with hands and feet. Thus, wonderful and also funny encounters came about.

What always convinces us is the slow way of traveling. Details stand out so much more and are better remembered. One stops rather times to enjoy the view and to shoot the one or other photo. All in all, we will certainly travel by bike again soon.